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design

what happened to me while looking for a woodcarver?

words by dilara

Fresh out of university, full of ideas in my head and lots of encouragement in my heart, there I was looking for a theme for my first big jewellery collection. I couldn't find a truly satisfying one for five months. Designing flowers, insects, etc. was everyone's first pick. I had to do something different, something more unique. If my friend had not encouraged me, this thinking process would have lasted for a few more months, maybe years. One day, while we were brain storming about the possible design themes, I started to describe the rotating cabinet I saw in Safranbolu the last summer. During the Ottoman period, every Turkish home used to have two sections: a harem and a selamlık. The harem part of the house consists of special chambers for women, and only close male relatives are allowed in here. The selamlık, on the other hand, is for male guests. And there is a small rotating cabinet on the kitchen wall connecting harem to selamlık.

How is this an important story for a jewellery designer?

There are several stories about the servants falling in love with each other while serving food through that rotating cabinet and sometimes they put love letters, gifts and flowers for their lover. There is also a mischievous saying in Turkish caused by these incidents: “Which cabinets are you two turning now?” This means the people in question are doing something suspicious or plotting about something.

Anyhow, with all this talk, suddenly we had an epiphany. It sounded more and more like an interesting theme. I looked at the photos of the cabinet and started drawing. It was originally made of wood so I also use this material in my design for a necklace. The drawings of the cabinet were finished except the hidden gift inside. I believe the most elegant and beautiful gift is a flower. I chose the tulip, a symbol of grace, nobility and love, which reminds me of the Ottoman era. While I was thinking about which technique and materials to use, I thought that I could go to Arto Bora who was the expert in enamel that I had mentioned in my last article. Also, I decided to use enamelling technique for the tulip. But who would be able to make the rotating cabinet out of wood into a necklace?

Luckily, there was a jewellery fair in Istanbul and I would be able to see all of the experts and talked to them. I and my friend headed to the fair immediately. It is a great opportunity for meeting with gemstones suppliers to artisans in one day. When we arrived, Arto was right there. I, hastily, told him about my design and that I would have him made the tulip from enamel. His response was good, he really liked my design and for the wooden exterior of the design he referred me a wood carving expert: Burak Şepikliyan. The rings which were made of wooden ships by him were meticulously sculpted and I needed such a talented master, I couldn't ask for more. We talked about the rotating cabinet and the mother-of-pearl details on the exterior. He gave me his address adding that this design was the most different one he had ever seen. I hoped it was a compliment expecting he would be capable of making my sketch come to life. Finally, I could go home gratefully for finding a woodmaster that I had been looking for so long. Little did I know, actualising a design was much harder than saying “Yes I can make this”.

Burak’s workshop is in Cağaloğlu, where almost every good jewellery artisans’ is. When I arrived there he was making a Pegasus out of wood. Seeing his great work in the wooden Pegasus with moving wings, I decided to have him make my design. His work on the wooden Pegasus was so good I almost believed it was going to fly away around the workshop. After we talked about the details he told me he could get it done in two months. Unfortunately, it took literally 8 months. Eventually, he called and said that the necklace was finished and looking great, even his wife was stunned by it. Instantly, I headed over the workshop. According to his compliments, it must have been really stunning. You know the trailers of thriller movies which doesn’t give any hints so that you can't know what is going to happen next, don't you? Yes, that was mine. With all of my hopes, I was standing right there waiting to see the final product. I have to admit it was not I had imagined: PERFECT. Nevertheless, he polished all the details I asked for.

When I consider all over the process of looking for a woodmaster I realize that there wasn't much available just like the time I looked for an enamel master.  I appreciate every artisan who still keeps making the craft. It is unbelievably sad seeing many of the handcraft works to become a part of the mass production. Also, it is sad to hear that nobody applies as an apprentice. Recalling my last article, there aren't more than 10 enamel masters in Istanbul remarked by Arto who also believes that after them this sector will totally disappear because of the reluctance to work. To sum up, I hope people starts appreciating the slow fashion more and prevent the death of this kind of precious handcrafts.

dilara egemenoğlu
jewellery 
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